Build images

Align T-rex 600 ESP

]]> http://vegard.hammerseth.com/align-t-rex-600-esp-has-arrived/488/feed/ http://vegard.hammerseth.com/why-i-prefer-a-rc-helicopter/474/ http://vegard.hammerseth.com/why-i-prefer-a-rc-helicopter/474/#comments Wed, 10 Jun 2009 20:21:23 +0000 Vegard http://vegard.hammerseth.com/?p=474 Helicopter versus Woman

1. A heli will kill you quickly — a woman love to take her time.
2. Helis can be turned on by a flick of a switch.
3. A heli does not get mad if you ‘touch and go’.
4. A heli does not object to a pre-flight inspection.
5. Helis come with manuals.
6. Helis have some weight limits.
7. You can fly a heli any time of the month.
8. Helis don’t come with in-laws.
9. A heli don’t whine unless something is really wrong.
10. A heli don’t care about how many other helis you have flown.
11. When flying, you and your heli both arrive at the same time or no complaints.
12. A heli don’t mind if you look at other helis, or if you buy heli magazines.
13. It’s OK to use tie-downs on your heli, they prefer it.
14. Helis are quiet when you are not flying them!
15. Helis never say… ” sell me and buy your wife something nice”.
16. When you show up at the field and there is a better looking heli, your heli doesn’t get jealous.
17. When you part with a heli, it doesn’t take your house.
18. You will never come home and find your heli in bed with another heli!
19. Possession of more than one heli is possible.
20. Helies can’t say… “I don’t want you to fly me today”.
21. A heli can’t use your bank card.

Solution is quite simple and here is it quick for you: Open a page with flash. Wait till it’s completely downloaded, then fetch if from /tmp/.

A longer explanation would be to a youtube page and load the entire movie like so:

When you see the movie has loaded fully, without interruptions from the user (you). You can find it in /tmp/:

Now you just copy it to where ever you’ll like. If you want to convert it, you can open it with avidemux or Kino and then export it to .mpeg or whatever format you’d want.

Using ffmpeg:
ffmpeg -i "/tmp/Flash8CRIFL" "mechanical hand.mpeg"

Recently one of my friends, a computer wizard, payed me a visit. As we were talking I mentioned that I had recently installed Windows on my PC, I told him how happy I was with this operating system and showed him the Windows CD. Too my surprise he threw it into my microwave oven and turned on the oven. Instantly I got very upset, because the CD had become precious to me, but he said: ‘Do not worry, it is unharmed.’ After a few minutes he took the CD out, gave it to me and said: ‘Take a close look at it.’ To my surprise the CD was quite cold to the touch and it seemed to be heavier than before. At first I could not see anything, but on the inner edge of the central hole I saw a inscription, an inscription finer than anything I have ever seen before. The inscription shone piercingly bright, and yet remote, as if out of a great depth:

4F6E65204F5320746F2072756C65207468656D20616C6C 2C204F6E65204F5320746F
2066696E64207468656D2C0D0A4F6E65204F5320746F20 6272696E67207468656D20
616C6C20616E6420696E20746865206461726B6E657373 2062696E64207468656D

‘I cannot understand the fiery letters,’ I said.

‘No but I can,’ he said. ‘The letters are Hex, of an ancient mode, but the language is that of Microsoft, which I shall not utter here. But in common English this is what it says:’

One OS to rule them all, One OS to find them, One OS to bring them all and in the darkness bind them.

First of all, top plate was removed, gear box turned around and electronics placed where I wanted them.

A 5×3mm carbon tube was added as stiffer for the chassi when top plate was removed. Shocks was mounted on the outside making them not straight.

Electronics in and I made a battery tray.

I tend to use this car anywhere in any weather. The electronics in my car has been opened and tried several times, so I decided to the essential parts in balloon. Servo is shipped waterproof.

Velcro on roof, weird, eh? well, I had a 1/10 body laying around and it turned to look great on this car. It was hard to mount and I wanted to be able to remove the 1/10 body from the car when I needed ultimate crawler abilities.

A box was necessary to get enough height over wheels.

I still have the bead lock mod. to do on this car. It will be done as soon as I find a suitable pipe to use.

As always, more and larger pictures in my gallery.

Team Losi Mini Rock Crawler

I wanted Ford GT500 body, but it didn’t/don’t exists and I didn’t want to create one from the scratch either. My best choice then was HPI’s GT-R.

I always cut the body first, drill holes and grind uneven areas with sandpaper. Front was cuttet to be able to have a grind in front, made holes for lower light’s and added stickers both front and back for disguising lights.

Step one in painting was black.

Doing a new disguising for middle part, to make inside a bit cleaner. Due to holes in the front, I was unlucky with disguising the front and had some leaks. Damn leaks.

From distance the car turned out great! If we look closer we can see all the leaks I had because of bad, bad tape. Next step was to darken the windows, but I was stupid enough to remove the lexan cover before doing so and I had to create me a new one.

To disguise back lights I used stickers shipped with the car. I cut them the way I wanted and it did fit like I wanted. I now had to use it’s shape to create a light bucket. For making light buckets I find it best to make it in paper first, it’s cheap, easy to use and environment friendly. You can see on left image below how I got the first shape to start with then I just added 0,5cm etc. for what I thought would be enough.

Being a perfectionist and all, I had to do this a couple of times before I was satisfied.

When it finally fit, I unfolded the paper again and taped it to 0.10mm thick metal I used and cut it out.

Front light’s are basically the same, but I had to cut my shape in half since i were going to put a cone in there.

Putting the pieces together was a hell because it the pieces didn’t have any areas to connect togheter, the only thing was the cone and it was going in after they were connected.

Mounting the lights with double sided tape.

GT500 knight rider has read light in the front. This car don’t have the same opening at front, so I had to improvise and make a crack another place. I also tried with underglow, but it didn’t look good enough.

I used a simple 6,0V light system to start with on this car, but I had to modify it allot since I were going to use 13 LEDs and not 6. I wanted to power this system directly from driving battery which is a 3S lipo battery, this means 9-12.6v. To be able to use such high voltage on light system, I had to put int resistors. To calculate resistors for each parallel connected resistor I used the formula Vr = (V-Vwanted)/I.

If you want to view all the images for this project feel free to browse my gallery below.

Ford GT-R - Knight rider edition

Before we decided what project we wanted to do, we had several ideas. A sensor based 4wd vehicle to mention one of them. After setting our goal on making a mechanical hand we did our research on google search/images. We only found a single hand (image below) which seemed something we could do in our time, among many other professional vendors.

It is required by us to setup a budget and plans for the rest of the project. All groups in my class needs to be finish by week 21 when the presentation is.

Me and my group are finish developing the hand and making it. We also got our plans for each week ready. Luckily, we reached our milestone for this week, were we wanted to figure out signal’s need for the RC-servos.

The hand is going to be drifted with five Futaba 148S servos, they cost about $19 each and provide 4.1KG of torque with 6.0v and a twist time of 0.19sec/60 degrees. So far, our budget is on $94, but it may increase by a few bucks due to some small components we might need.

We are still working on the sinew/rod’s before installing servos. We might just clean it for all welding points as well.

Update #1
We have now figured out the servo signals and created a physical servo controller. We are using the 555 timer, two actually, because we had an issue with only using one. It didn’t create a stable output before 30 seconds after start. The
surrounding components, capacitors and resistors are our variables, changing the signal length.

We also did make a counter using two J/K FlipFlops and a dmux to convert the signals.

The circuit’s for this hand is so complex, that we decided to program it all into a Altera card. Logic scheme will be available later when we have completed the project.

Image album.

School project - Mechanical hand

Video of hand in action.

Finger control.

Bottle holder.

The idea with this plane is to use a motor with variable pitch. These setups are rare and a bit more expensive than other powers systems. I will also have to install another servo to be able to change the pitch rate on the prop. 4D motor features a hollow motor shaft and I bought a set from hobby-lobby.com some weeks ago. The motor mount coming with this motor is designed for 3mm depron and I’m using 6mm depron. This is my first real problem on this plane so far. Will probably grind the front down to 3mm to be able to mouting the motor.

View all pictures of the plane below.

Extra 300

Yesterday I received my package from readyheli where there was two receivers and four 11.1v 850mAh kongpower batteries I tend to use on these planes. More on my second plane in another post.

Specifications for this plane will be updated when I deside the electronics for it.

Specifications so far:

• Spektrum AR6100

Build images below.

F-22 Raptor

View maiden flight on youtube

As a child I was able to make my self a neat gun which could fire over 5 meters and still being cheap and cool. Now I will share how I made it before I completly forget it.

To complete this tutorial you’ll need the following

• wooden clothing peg (check first image)
• rubber band
• small saw or you can just break of the first part
• needle, toothpick, match or something similar for ammunition

1. Split your peg.

2. Saw and grind.

Gently saw the parts off and keep the biggest part. You only want to do this to one of the pieces. If you don’t have a saw it’ll do just breaking off the larger piece and forget about the small at the back (upper in picture below).

The piece you haven’t touched now needs some grinding where the spring is going to be sitting. Make sure you make enough room for the spring to securely stay in it’s place (check step 3).

3. Put it together.

Put the spring back on the biggest piece you just grined and mount the upper piece (now refereed to as the re-loader) with a rubber band. Please do use a smaller rubber. I didn’t have any other band when making this tutorial. Make sure the re-loader is not to tight mounted, this will cause the projectile to eject slower and shoot shorter.

4. Re-loading and arming.

Pull the re-loader forward until you hit the spring. Pull the re-loader down and backwards until the spring is locked in it’s position. Now arm your weapon with desired ammunition.

Troubleshoot

• If the spring is stuck in arming position, you may have to grind it’s lock-hole a bit.
• If above dosen’t work because the spring is slipping from it’s place underneath the gun, you didn’t grind a good enough room for it.
• When your spring is going back inside the re-loader when fireing, you didn’t saw off enough at the end of it. Grind off some more.

Again; use with caution. Do not aim at any human, animals or like. This is not a toy.